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New downtown restaurant opens in the KM building

by GEORGE KINGSON The Daily Inter Lake
| June 12, 2005 1:00 AM

Her name is Red and she's the heart and soul of the new Red's Wines & Blues joint in the historic KM Building on East Second Street in Kalispell.

"Red's a cowgirl," said owner Bill Goodman, inclining his head toward the illustrations of his Montana goddess - drawn by local artist Jim Clayborn - decorating the restaurant walls.

"She's a native who knows the difference between a lager and a logger. And late into the night you'll find her hanging out here."

In your dreams.

Monday's grand opening has come and gone for the new downtown eatery and now the waiting starts. Goodman has sunk his money into the old Kalispell Mercantile Building and come up with a graceful design of exposed brick walls, stamped metal ceilings, and tables, chairs and barstools of almost utilitarian structure. The ornate back bar was trucked in from the mountains above

Alamagordo, N.M.

Goodman, owner of the KM Building, is aiming for a "chic, community-centered" restaurant.

Red's Wines & Blues follows the Bulldog Steakhouse that had anchored the KM Building for 22 years.

In October 2004, the Bulldog moved to the WestCoast Outlaw Hotel after lease renewal negotiations broke down.

Goodman is reluctant to discuss the move. "We did not renew their lease and that's all I need to say," he said.

Goodman said he is a strong supporter of downtown communities because they provide an excitement that the suburbs cannot. A Realtor by trade, Goodman is new to the restaurant business, which is historically as high-risk as skydiving on a moonless night.

"I know, I know," he said, grinning. "And I'm in therapy for it, too. I mean, it's not like I've always wanted to own a restaurant my whole life.

"But it had to be done because it's what the town needed. People have said there's nothing to do downtown after dark. So now I've gone and changed that."

What Goodman lacks in restaurant finesse is made up by the expertise of Peter Zimmer, Goodman's master chef and general manager. Together the men worked up the concept for Red's Wines & Blues.

Zimmer does not trail fancy culinary bona fides behind his name. He came up through the school of pots, pans and dirty dishwater. He owned his first restaurant at the age of 21.

If you're looking for any sort of theme cuisine at Red's, forget it. In Goodman's words, "We're all over the place. Our menus are alive and constantly changing."

You might be there the day they're serving yak burgers or, perhaps, pizza with proscuitto and figs. The restaurant is long on local produce and fresh ideas.

"Food needs to be exciting," Zimmer said, a glint of the possessed-chef look in his eye. "Nothing should ever be, well … nothing should ever be flat. Whatever you do in this life, it needs to be amazing."

Goodman waited three years for a city liquor license before he opened Red's.

During that time, he became the owner of the Boxcar Bar, located exactly five miles and 126 feet from the Kalispell city limits. Once Kalispell city limits grew enough to close that distance to under five miles, Goodman's license in the county became valid for the city.

Did he have much of a following at the Boxcar?

"Well, maybe you could say I had, er, sort of a little clientele there," he said.

The new restaurant has room for 120 customers and employs a staff of 25. In addition to more traditional features such as a house band and a wine bar, the facility is nonsmoking and has wireless computer access.

Current hours are 7 a.m. to 11 p.m. every day but Sunday.

Early customer reviews have been good.

"They definitely get an A-plus for taste," said Mark Schickendantz. "It's a new flavor in the community."

Reporter George Kingson may be reached at 758-4438 or by e-mail at gkingson@dailyinterlake.com