Restaurants, sanitarians work for food safety

County Health Officer Joe Russell reverts to sanitarian the minute he walks into the kitchen of the Bulldog Steak House.

"This is a large kitchen," he said as he began a demonstration inspection.

He first stops at the sink where scrubs his hands. Board member Dr. Glen Aasheim, well versed in sterile procedures, follows Russell at the sink.

"Did you know that you should wash your hands for as long as it takes to sing "Happy Birthday," he said prompting some laughter. "That's true."

During a recent retreat, Aasheim and other health board members got a first-hand look at how Flathead County sanitarians help restaurants maintain the food safety that valley residents take for granted.

Armed with clipboards, board members were ready for action. Russell and sanitarians Wendee Jacobs and Darin Woeppel divided up the group to inspect critical control points in the Bulldog's expansive meal preparation arena.

"It's not the classical, white-gloved sanitarian that people think of," Russell told his group. "We're going to focus where risk is highest."

He led the way to the Bulldog's receiving area. Canned and other goods line steel shelves in the storage room just off a back door into the kitchen.

Russell starts at the bottom where he finds the restaurant meets the standard.

"Dry storage needs to be 6 inches off the floor - that's a classic number," he said.

Russell scanned the shelves, catching sight of a can with a slight dent. Although minor, the blemish in the can's armor could let in air, triggering rapid bacteria growth.

"Generally, I'd ask them to discard it," he said.

He also approved of the case of sterno stored below the food items. Russell said a toxic item stored above food items or in food preparation areas would constitute a critical violation.

A critical violation, he said, requires immediate attention and triggers a five-point deduction from the inspection score.

Next on the inspection, the group stopped at a wood preparation counter. Russell found the surface spotless and smooth.

Aasheim questioned whether the wood might harbor bacteria as it becomes cut and dinged. Russell said regulations allow wood surfaces such as the Bulldog's maple counter that the staff can sand smooth if damage occurs that interferes with sanitation.

The group filed through the staging area as staff began filtering in for the noon rush hour. Russell bent down to check the salad cooler where he found the required visible thermometer.

"I see 38," he said. "That's good because by afternoon that could be 42."

To test the thermometer's accuracy, Russell pulled his own from his pocket and placed it in the cooler. He found a slight discrepancy, which he said was a minor violation.

Russell said that sanitarians Jacobs and Woeppel carry electronic, quick probe thermometers on inspections that give instant readings for testing equipment like dishwashers.

"The dishwasher temperature should be 160 degrees," Russell said. "That's the magic number that kills bacteria."

He ran his fingers over a steel preparation area, declaring it clean. Restaurants use solutions of either chlorine or quaternary ammonia for sanitizing food contact surfaces.

"Chlorine is nonorganic," Russell said. "I think it's a much better sanitizer."

He cautioned against using too high a concentration, which can create a toxic surface for food. For home use, he suggested a capful in a gallon of water as a safe, effective solution.

Russell next checked out the ice machine, top to bottom, for evidence of slime build-up. The scoop was stored correctly in a cradle outside the machine, rather than thrown inside on the ice.

"Ice is considered a food," he said.

The tour moved into food preparation where Russell checked the chef's refrigerator. He discovered all food covered and the temperature acceptable.

Next, he leaned under the large vent over the kitchen burners, pointing out the flange that catches grease. The unit contains Halon for suppression of fire.

Further down the aisle, Russell drew attention to a dish of bacon on a counter. He explained that bacon posed much less hazard at room temperature than some other foods.

He explained that grease doesn't support rapid growth of bacteria. But foods with a higher concentration of water require caution.

"High PH, over 4, promotes bacteria growth," Russell said.

He applauded a waterless hand sanitizer hanging on the wall as he moved the tour into a walk-in cooler.

The staff had cleaned the grates, and food was covered and labeled with a date as required.

Along side the walk-in cooler, a staging freezer held foods for short-term storage. Russell said fish requires at least 10 below to stop an enzyme activity that makes the product mushy.

The health official said inspections don't just help restaurant owners keep food safe. They also provide information that improves profits.

"When I did inspections, I wanted to look like I was their partner," Russell said. "I talked about making products last longer."

As the tour neared its end, the kitchen was pulsing with activity and people. Russell watched and questioned a cook as he added steaming gravy into large pans of chicken and dumplings for a noon Rotary meeting.

He complimented the cook on surpassing the minimum time standards and following all the safety rules.

"This is well done," he said.

Although the inspection turned up some minor violations, the Bulldog Steak House far exceeded the minimum standards for public safety.

"Large kitchens are difficult," Russell said. "People make problems in the food services."

Following inspections, he said sanitarians try to grab a responsible person in the kitchen to talk with about how the restaurant operates.

"That's probably the most important thing you can do," Russell said. "Educate and support them."

Reporter Candace Chase may be reached at 758-4436 or by e-mail at cchase@dailyinterlake.com