VIANO COLUMN: A city boy in the wilderness

I’m as city as it comes, if I’m going to be honest about it.

My childhood was dotted with mini-malls, mini-golf courses and pavement. I’ve never hunted, I can’t filet a fish — I probably can’t catch one, for that matter — and the wild animal I’ve spied most often is a rat. A red-eyed, over-fed, hyper-skittish monster-movie sized rat, but a rat nonetheless.

So me writing about hiking in the “Last Best Place” feels like about as natural of a fit as that rat banging out 600 words on fine dining.

But I love Montana and I love to hike, even if the end result isn’t always what I expected.

It’s all about the journey, after all.

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Let me start by saying I’m not exactly sure where I ended up on this hike, so there is that. Otherwise, the journey I took last week from the Sperry Trailhead on the Gunsight Pass Trail was secluded, gorgeous (like everything else in Glacier National Park), not especially rugged and an ideal early-season trek.

Going-to-the-Sun Road is still closed to vehicle traffic beyond the Lake McDonald Lodge but parking there is still ample and the Sperry Trailhead is just steps away from the lot, across the road.

Without a lot of time, and with the weather still not ideal, I set my sights on Fish Lake via the Gunsight Pass Trail, opting to save the more popular and lengthier trips to Mount Brown and Snyder Lake for another day.

The roughly three-mile one-way trail toward Fish Lake — more on that later — climbs almost from the outset, rising more than 1,200 feet in total. The majority of the climb is in the first two miles, and the gain is steady enough that it was never overwhelming and I was still able to keep a fairly brisk pace.

Within the first mile or so, beautiful western views start to emerge through the trees, including a slender mountain stream and some terrific looks at Lake McDonald. For those just looking for a serene, snowless spot to sit and relax, there are a handful of clearings that do the trick, even before hitting the junctions for Mount Brown and Snyder Lake, less than two miles from the road.

I ventured on, past the junctions and up to the first of two rustic bridges. At that point, at least as of last week, there is a bit of snow but not enough to stop a mildly adventurous hiker.

The first bridge crosses near a small waterfall and the briskly moving Snyder Creek that was the gem of the hike. The stream opened up some of Glacier’s signature postcard views and was sunny enough that even with the snow on the ground it was comfortable in a long-sleeve shirt or light jacket.

Still not satisfied, I followed a sign just past the bridge pointing to Fish Lake. At some point, though, those missing mountain instincts caught up with me. I was able to tackle another mile or so of trail and come to a second bridge, where the views were still spectacular but the temperature was not with the sun completely obscured.

From there the trail disappeared, at least for this amateur. Snow started to thicken just beyond this second creek, and a bevy of downed trees and other brush blocked any obvious path, so I scratched my head — literally, in fact — while looking around and hoofed it back for Snyder Creek and the first bridge crossing.

A log alongside the creek was a comfortable enough seat and an ideal place for some Montana zen. The spot is noisy, with the whoosh of water racing down the mountain, but in the most relaxing possible way. The backdrop was amazing, too, with the descending creek framed by lush tress and snow-covered rocks.

The scenery ideal, the rhythmic sound blocking out any distractions and the sun bright enough to allow a lengthy stay for food, drink and a little writing, the resting place alone is more than worth the trip. It’s just the kind of slice of nature that makes so many, myself included, talk about the park in spiritual terms.

Despite not getting to see the elusive Fish Lake, hiking on the Gunshight Pass Trail is relatively painless, easily tackled in a few hours, extremely secluded — I passed no more than four other groups going out and back — and one of the few easily accessible routes in April.

I’m sure it’s even better if you know what you’re doing.

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Andy Viano is a sports reporter, columnist and slowly-evolving Montanan. He can be reached at 758-4446 or aviano@dailyinterlake.com.