Saddled up for stories

You could almost hear the snap of a campfire as legendary outfitter Arnold “Smoke” Elser covered his head ("I cannot talk without my hat on”) and settled in to tell stories early last month at Flathead Valley Community College’s Arts & Technology Building. 

About a hundred of us leaned in to hear every word said in honor of this occasion — the 60-year anniversary of the Wilderness Act — and also the recent publication of Elser's memoir, “Hush of the Land: A Lifetime in the Bob Marshall Wilderness.” We responded with Hush of the Audience.

For a guy who’s all about trekking far from civilization, Elser sure can draw a crowd. 

“I hope you all understand we have a wilderness area protected by the government for future generations — not just us,” Elser said. He was referring in part to the million-acre Bob Marshall Wilderness, one ushered in among the first wave of such areas on Sept. 3, 1964, with passage of the act. 

Elser engaged with the years-long campaign when he realized “the wild places wouldn’t stay wild by chance” and credits longtime Montana congressman Mike Mansfield and President Lyndon Johnson for getting the act passed “no questions asked.” 

Elser put nearly 60 years into outfitting, along the way teaching a legendary mule-packing class and starring in the PBS documentary “3 Miles an Hour.”  

“There’s a lot more people using the backcountry, using the open space,” he said. “Not too many are using horses, but they give you a real advantage." To illustrate, he launched into a couple of stories not in the book. 

On one trip for a bunch of executives including the CEO of Boeing they got caught up in strong runoff where the Middle Fork of the Flathead was “really roaring – it looked like chocolate milk,” Elser said. “I thought, ‘Oh boy, this is going to be a little tough.’” He crossed it with water cresting over the saddle, and they still got the Highlander beer (in steel cans) cooled for the clients. 

You get the feeling no one had your back better in the backcountry. 

Another group came for a trip that was headed up by a fellow named Steve Ford. “Rent us everything you need,” they told Elser, “we got suitcases of money.” Elser said, “I liked that part” and so the president’s son took his packing class, along with members of the Secret Service. Then they hit the trail. 

As a teenager I went to work at Denali National Park. I’ll never forget the awesome feel of the vast landscape after the hikers’ shuttle bus chugged away. The mere foothills to North America’s highest peak looked about as tall as the Montana mountains back home. It was life-affirming to feel so small. 

“The Wilderness Act would not pass today – not a chance,” Elser said. “It wouldn’t even be introduced.” We’re a different state and country now. 

Still, we’ve got wilderness. We’ve got Smoke, and tales made possible by big nature. 

As I walked through the parking lot afterward, an attendee hollered at me over the hood of her Prius, “Want to see what a baby bear did to my car?” 

Margaret E. Davis, executive director of the Northwest Montana History Museum, can be reached at mdavis@dailyinterlake.com.